08.27.08
Jammin’ in Jack London: Miss Pearl’s Jam House opens
One of the perks of writing about Oakland is that I get to go to great events. Last night, I attended the opening party for Miss Pearl’s Jam House in Jack London Square. The drinks were flowing, the island music was lively, and all in attendance were upbeat about the future of the “new” Jack London, with Miss Pearl’s as an anchor. Celeb chef Joey Altman, who revamped the recipes from the original Miss Pearl’s for this new venture, the developer from Ellis Partners, and the CEO of Joie de Vivre hotels, which recently renovated the Waterfront.
With a palm grove in front, seashells on the walls, and a treasure-filled bar, there are no remnants of Jack’s Bistro, the former tenant in this space. A parking lot outside has been transformed into green space and the large restaurant is tiered in a way that allows it to feel intimate and offers the view of the channel to most patrons. At first, I came in the back way through the hotel, but I immediately went outside and reentered through the front, passing beneath the big, neon red Miss Pearl’s sign, to get a feel for what it’s like to arrive at this resortlike haven.
The food was as impressive as the space. I sampled black-eyed pea fritters, mango gazpacho (amazing!), jicama salad, spicy shrimp and crab cakes, and steak with grits and fried onions. The surprise standout of the night was a side dish of black beans (really), which everyone at my table was impressed with.The desserts, which I barely had room for, were also tasty - I couldn’t stop eating the tres leches cake and the tapioca parfait with mangoes and strawberries was heartily endorsed by a local pastry chef and dessert consultant, who ate three.
As my friend and I left dinner, we walked and talked about what a coup it would be to finally revive Jack London. I left dinner with a sense that good things are happening and that maybe the current developer can pull this off (here’s a suggestion - how about a trolley to BART? Street performers? Stores open late?). And if not, there’s some fantastic new food and great atmosphere in the square.
Miss Pearl’s is located at 1 Broadway.
